Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
